Inside the Middle East - Blog
July 17, 2008
Faces From Oman






I've always loved the Omani turban. The way the Omanis wear it, the fabric (usually very thin pashmina-type material from India and Pakistan,) the fact that their headgear is colorful and so very different from other Gulf countries.

I stopped men in the streets of Salalah and snapped a few pictures of the way the Mussar, as it's called, looks when wrapped tightly around a en embroidered skullcap, called the Kumma.

During my last visit to Oman, I was told that the Mussar is the equivalent of a tie in the West. When the occasion calls for casual dress, they will only wear the cap.

But for work or social occasions, they will most often tie the Kumma over the cap. It can take up to 10 minutes to do this, as it is important to recreate the paisley motif in the finished wrap.
Blogging From Oman

I am at the airport in the Omani capital, Muscat, on my way to southern Oman.

The Inside the Middle East team will be spending a few days in Salalah, over one thousand kilometers South of Muscat, hosting the show and shooting a story for the August edition of the program.

It's over 40 degrees celsius in most parts of Oman this time of year, but we hear the weather down south is a little more agreeable. Something about Monsoon rains cooling down the atmosphere and creating a lush green tropical oasis, surrounded by the harsh deserts of the Arabian peninsula.

Tourists from all over the Gulf region flock to Salalah during the summer months. Eco-tourists from other parts of the world are also beginning to discover this part of Oman.

I will be updating the blog page regularly, so watch this space!
July 16, 2008
Murderer Turned Hero - Arab Media Coverage
--By CNN's Octavia Nasr

With pomp and circumstance Lebanon welcomed Samir Kuntar. The man considered a symbol of evil in Israel, convicted of killing an Israeli father and bludgeoning to death the man's four year old daughter. The year was 1979; Kuntar was 16. He was sentenced to 542 years in prison.

In Lebanon today, he is hailed as a hero.

Speaking to a huge crowd, Kuntar said, “Today I came from Palestine, only to return to Palestine.” Promising that he will be back along with his “brothers the Mujahideen of the Islamic Resistance.”

A reference to the Hezbollah militia who negotiated his release along with 4 others and the remains of nearly 200 of Arab and Lebanese militants.

The day was portrayed as a great victory in promotional videos leading up to the release and extensive minute-by-minute coverage that lasted throughout the day on Hezbollah's TV station Al-Manar -- culminating in coverage of a massive celebration near the capital Beirut.

Other local and regional TV stations treated the story with similar dedication.

One station ran a dramatic video clip glorifying the first woman suicide bomber, Dalal al-Mughrabi, who perished in 1978 and whose remains were returned this day, causing more celebration.

Others highlighted street banners in English that read "Pain in Israel and Joy in Lebanon" and "Freedom guaranteed by Nassrallah.. Humiliation guaranteed by Olmert." Comments aimed at twisting the knife in Israel's wound, making the point that the pain and defeat belong in Israel while joy and freedom reside in Lebanon.
July 14, 2008
In Baghdad, Sometimes Fighting Brings Peace





“Ah, good to see you,” Farouq Chanchoon (top photo) says in very broken English. He’s the head coach at the Adamiyah gym and a boxing legend in Iraq. The first thing he shows me is his collection of medals. “Bronze medal, world cup 1981,” he keeps saying. Chanchoun is a former Iraqi Olympian. He fought in the 1976 games in Montreal, and in Moscow in 1980. He won the bronze at the boxing world cup in Montreal in 1981.

With all of Farouq’s stories I didn’t even notice, he already put on his boxing gloves and ushered me into the ring. For a 53 year old, he hasn’t lost his speed or his eye, and I can feel the punches rain on my body and face as I try to escape and fight back. All the while, Farouq’s youngest students, about 20 kids between the ages of 7 and 14 clap and chant. You can tell Farouq has boxing in his blood. The way he moves, the ring is his natural environment.


But to the kids here, he is more than a coach. In war-torn Baghdad, Farouq is like a father and guardian to many of those who train here. He teaches them discipline, respect for each other, no matter if they are Sunni or Shia. “My doors are open to anyone who is serious about boxing,” Farouq tells me later. “No matter if they are Sunni or Shia, anyone can come here.”

Ali Hassan is serious about boxing. He’s 21 years old, Iraq’s welterweight champion and my next sparring partner. I can escape his punches for about a minute until I take a right hook to the jaw that stops me in my tracks. “Some day, I hope I can fight in international championships and win gold and silver medals,” Ali says, and judging the way he beat me up, I don’t doubt he has what it takes.
Ali often leaves work early to come to the Adamiyah gym, but for a long time that was impossible. For decades, the gym was Iraq’s premiere address for boxers, but after the fall of Saddam Hussein, violence engulfed the streets of the neighborhood, Al Qaeda took over, and the gym was shut. Much of the boxing equipment was looted, the old boxing ring was later torn apart by some of the local residents and used as building material. “I always kept training,” Farouq says, but it was hard and dangerous.

Adamiyah is almost 100 per cent Sunni, but Shia fighters regularly make their way to the gym. Farouq says even during the worst of the sectarian strife in Baghdad, he still welcomed Shia boxers. “It has never made a difference to me,” he says. When the gym was closed, they would train in other locations and some shia risked their lives to learn from him.

Check out Frederik's full story here.

(All photos by CNN's Mohammed Tawfeeq)
July 8, 2008
Uday's Vintage Cars Unearthed In Iraq
(Photo AP/Loay Hameed)

Police acted on a tip and found five cars previously belonging to Uday Hussein, son of Saddam Hussein, burried in an orchard in Baghdad's Dora district.

From AP: The cars, two Rolls Royces and several vintage classics, were stolen from Odai Hussein's palace after the U.S.-led invasion in 2003, police said.

A group planned to smuggle the cars out of the country and sell them, said a police officer. But police learned of the plan, followed large trucks into the orchard and then arrested three people.

The cars, now in police possession, were shown to the media Monday. It was unclear what would become of them.
July 7, 2008
Mideast Snapshot: A Fine Mess
Nablus, West Bank, July 7, 2008. A Palestinian youth looks at damaged items in a school operated by the Islamic group Hamas. (Photo AP)

Israeli troops raided Hamas-funded and operated institutions overnight, confiscating documents and computers in the West Bank town of Nablus.

One of the schools was sealed off and a sign posted on the door that witnessed said reads: "the offices have been closed because they were part of terrorist infrastructure."

Similar operations have already been carried out in Ramallah and Hebron.

This appears to be part of a wider crackdown on Hamas-affiliated schools and institutions, in an effort to strengthen the hand of Hamas rivals Fattah in the West Bank.
July 4, 2008
When The Red Zone Turns Orange
Baghdad, Iraq during the recent sandstorm. July 2, 2008 at 2pm. Photo CNN's Thomas Evans.



Mideast Snapshot - Fourth Of July Edition
U.S. military service members take an oath at a mass re-enlistment ceremony in Baghdad, Iraq, Friday, July 4, 2008. 1215 service members re-enlisted Friday during an Independence Day ceremony at al-Faw palace at Camp Victory. (AP Photo/Marko Drobnjakovic)
July 1, 2008
Mideast Snapshot - Waiting To Cross
Rafah Crossing, July 1, 2008. Palestinians wait to leave Gaza Strip to Egypt through the Rafah border crossing. Egypt opened Rafah Tuesday, Gaza's main gateway to the outside world, for two days to allow hundreds of people stranded on both sides to cross. (AP Photo/Khalil Hamra)
June 30, 2008
The "Mad Game" Of War - A Reporter Looks Back

--By CNN's Ben Wedeman

The unmistakable stench of decomposing human flesh hit me as I entered the shrapnel-scarred house on a hillside overlooking the southern Lebanese village of Aitaroun. The village was in ruins, having been pounded by Israeli artillery for days.

Many of the inhabitants of Aitaroun had fled. But not the man in this house, whose name I didn’t know. He had died in his living room—from precisely what I can’t say—several days before. The floor was shiny with dried blood; broken glass from the shattered windows crunched under our shoes.

Cameraman Joe Duran and I had come to Aitaroun during a brief lull in Israel’s campaign against Hizballah in the summer of 2006.

The war began on July 12th when Hizballah guerrillas crossed the Lebanese-Israeli border and ambushed an Israeli patrol, killing three soldiers and abducting two others, Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev. The Israeli government now believes Goldwasser and Regev are dead.


Hizballah demanded Israel release several Lebanese nationals in Israeli prisons (including Samir Qantar, who in 1979 as a member of the Arab Liberation Front had taken part in a particularly grisly attack on Israeli civilians in the town of Nahariya,) plus an unspecified number of Palestinian prisoners, in exchange for the two Israeli soldiers.

Israel refused, and chose the military option, launching a campaign of punishing air raids across Lebanon with the stated goal of winning the freedom of the two soldiers and, in the process, of teaching Hizballah a lesson it would never forget.

At the time, Israeli Prime Minister Ehud Olmert declared: “We will not give in to blackmail and will not negotiate with terrorists when it comes to the lives of Israel Defence Forces soldiers.”

But this Sunday, the Israeli cabinet, led by Ehud Olmert, voted 22 to 3 in favour of a German-brokered exchange deal. In the end, the deal wasn’t dramatically different from what Hizballah proposed in the first place.

So what was the Lebanon war about? Was it about the abducted soldiers or was it, as many believe, part of a US-inspired plan to crush Hizballah and send a stern warning to its main backer, Iran?

This we do know: it left more than 1200 Lebanese and nearly 160 Israelis dead. Thousands more were wounded. Hundreds of thousands were made homeless. Lebanon’s economy was severely damaged. The war caused billions of dollars of damage on both sides.

When the fighting came to an end on August 14th, the two Israeli soldiers (dead or alive, we don't know) were still in Hizballah’s hands. Hizballah was still intact and is today arguably stronger than ever before.

Lebanese suffered, Israelis suffered. The only ones who certainly benefited from the whole sad, grisly, gruesome, horrifying affair were the corporations who manufacture the weapons and the ammunition.

That war is almost always an utter and total waste is obvious. Well, it should be obvious, but it isn’t. And here I’m talking about real war, not the war you see on tided-up, blood-and-guts-free TV news or the absurd version that passes for a depiction of war in the movies. I mean what you see when you’re in a war zone—the seemingly random, mindless destruction (smart bombs aren’t as smart as the brochures and the spokesmen confidently claim,) the mangled and mutilated bodies, the terrified, angry, traumatised people, the women and children and the old who don’t take part in the fighting but who always are the ones who suffer the most.

It was people like these who are on my mind when I think of what a complete waste the Lebanon war was.

On another day during the war in south Lebanon, also in Aitaroun, I was with another cameraman, the tall and laconic veteran Brian Puchiati. We had made our way to the village with a group of journalists, and walked, stunned speechless, by the extent of the destruction. Houses transformed into rubble. Dead animals rotting in the street and the fields. Huge craters everywhere.

We arrived at an intersection, when an old woman stuck their head out of a door. She saw we were clearly not soldiers and called back inside.

Moments later dozens of people emerged from the doorway. They were pale, their eyes reflected a horror and numbness I’ve seen in other war zones. They came out into the street first furtively, then frantically.

“Get us out of here,” a woman pleaded to me. “Please, get us out of here.”

I asked another of those who streamed out of the doorway what he had seen, what he had experienced. He was short on details, but long on shock.

“It was unbearable, unbearable,” the man, Ahmed Bassam, told me. He was going straight to Beirut, to get as far away as possible from his nightmares.

I didn’t cover the war from Israel, but I’m sure my colleagues who were there witnessed scenes of trauma, devastation and desperation.

The Lebanon war in 2006 was a waste. Regardless of what its aims were, regardless of all that was said by Israel, by Hizballah, or whomever, it was a waste.

(Photo Ben Curtis/AP - Destruction in the southern suburbs of Beirut, July 2006)
Iraq's Oil Fields: Who Will Cash In?

BAGHDAD (AP) — The Iraqi government opened six oil fields to international bidding Monday as the nation attempts to boost daily production by 60 percent.

The potential participation of big Western companies like BP, Chevron, Exxon Mobil, Shell and Total SA in Iraq's oil industry has been criticized in recent weeks following published reports that several were close to signing no-bid contracts with the Iraqi government.

Those contracts were expected to be announced Monday, but Iraqi Oil Minister Hussain al-Shahristani instead named 35 companies that would be qualified to bid on service contracts for the oil fields of Rumeila, Zubair, Qurna West, Maysan, Kirkuk and Bay Hassan.

"These fields were chosen because their production can be raised in a short time and at a low cost," said al-Shahristani.

All of the fields are currently producing oil, and al-Shahristani said the new contracts would raise Iraq's production by 1.5 million barrels per day. Iraq currently produces 2.5 million barrels per day and hopes to raise that to 4.5 million by 2013.
June 26, 2008
Don't Ask, Don't Tell: Being Gay In The Mideast

-- By CNN's Octavia Nasr

If you're a homosexual in the Arab world, there is a great chance you'll get the same treatment fifty-two men did at an Egyptian gay disco on the Nile in 2001: arrested, their heads covered with white hoods, on charges of practicing debauchery and denigrating Islam. That would be the official treatment, which might be kinder than the one you get from your family.

In the documentary titled Gloriously Free, a gay man who fled Jordan after being shot and almost killed by his brother paints a grim picture. In the film, he’s identified with only a portion of his name “al-Hussein”:

"There are laws concerning homosexuals. However there is no killing by the government by law. But there is still the traditional honor killing by family and persecution by society."

A society that is deeply rooted in the conservative interpretation of Islam and centuries-old social laws.

Another Film entitled, A Jihad for Love, explores the relationship between Islam and homosexuality, as well as the official stance from the religious authority.

An unidentified sheikh interviewed for the film says with much conviction, "Homosexuality is a crime and is punishable in Islam by death."

The film shows the disturbing stand for gay people who practice Islam.
An unidentified gay man whose face is not shown says, "I wish there was a verse in the Quran that said please do not discriminate against homosexuality."

But if gay people in the Arab world cannot live their lives openly, many of them have resorted to talking about it online, forming chat groups to offer each other support.

On the internet, an Arab gay and lesbian community is very active. They express themselves and their homosexuality openly and try to bring change to a culture that still doesn't accept them and often pretends that they don't even exist.

The Gay and Lesbian Arabic Society (GLAS) say on their special website: "We are part of the global gay and lesbian movement seeking an end to injustice."

But for now, they can only gather in secret or on the Internet until their communities give them the justice they seek.
June 24, 2008
Child Brides In Yemen
Ten-year-old Nujood Ali

-- By CNN's Paula Newton in Yemen, who will host the July edition of Inside the Middle East.

Two thirds of the population of the Middle East is under the age of 25. The profound consequences of that statistic just kind of hit you over the head. This really is a youthful region with a wealth of opportunity and promise still to come.

But a whole new generation of children must now decide how to accommodate the traditional wishes of their parents and still carve a path of their own.

In her very unique way Nujood Ali is doing just that. Ten year-old Nujood is every inch a child. And yet this shy girl with a slow and ready smile and a voice that betrays innocence has already been married and divorced. We met her in Yemen, a place where more than half of young women are married off by their families before the age of 18.

We’ve learned much about why that happens and why it is set to continue for years to come. But Nujood is one child bride who dared to speak out. You won’t forget her story and you can see it next month on the latest edition of Inside the Middle East coming to you from Yemen.

Mideast Snapshot - Iranian Salt Fields
The "salt flats" outside the city of Yazd, Iran. Photo Mitra Mobasherat.
Sarkozys Whisked Away At Airport


French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni were rushed into the official plane flying them back to Paris following an incident at Ben Gurion Airport.

According to a police official, a customs guard committed suicide during the departure ceremony, which spraked panic at the event.

Meanwhile, several rockets hit southern israel this morning. Islamic Jihad claimed responsibility for the attack, which they said was revenge for the killing of one of their members in the West Bank.

The Hamas-Israel truce may well prove to be extremely short-lived.
ABOUT THIS BLOG
Welcome to the Inside the Middle East blog. Our reporters, producers, cameramen and editors will regularly add to this with colorful behind-the-scene stories. This page is about how we put the show together -- from on-location shoots to the editing room -- as well as for anecdotes and stories that don't always make it into our finished on-air product.
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Inside the Middle East airs 1st full weekend of every month and the following Thursday.

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